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Side by side

FHA vs. conventional.

Both get you into a house with far less than 20% down. The real difference is what the mortgage insurance does over time — and that is where most people choose wrong.

The short answer

FHA is usually better if your credit score is under about 680 or your debt-to-income ratio is tight. Conventional is usually better at 700+, because its mortgage insurance drops off once you reach 20% equity — while FHA mortgage insurance lasts the life of the loan on anything under 10% down.

That single difference is worth more over ten years than the rate gap between the two programs. Everything else — down payment, limits, appraisal rules — is secondary.

The differences that matter

Where they actually differ

Nine factors. The one that decides most files is the mortgage insurance row.

FHA vs. Conventional · 2026 Guidelines

FactorFHAConventional
Minimum down payment3.5% with a 580+ score; 10% from 500–5793% for qualifying first-time buyers (HomeReady / Home Possible); 5% standard
Credit score floor500 with 10% down, 580 for 3.5% — the most forgiving optionGenerally 620 minimum, with pricing that improves sharply above 700
Mortgage insuranceLasts the life of the loan under 10% down; 11 years at 10%+. Plus a 1.75% upfront premium financed into the balanceCancellable. PMI is removed at 80% LTV on request and automatically at 78%. No upfront premium
MI cost driverFlat rate regardless of credit score — which is why it wins for lower scoresPriced by credit score and LTV — can be cheaper than FHA above ~720, far more expensive below 660
Debt-to-income ceilingMore flexible; can stretch past 50% with strong compensating factorsTypically capped near 45–50% depending on the automated underwriting decision
After bankruptcy or foreclosureShorter waiting periods — often the only route in the first few yearsLonger seasoning requirements
Loan limitsSet by county and lower than conforming in most of New York$832,750 baseline in most NY counties for 2026; $1,209,750 in the five boroughs plus Nassau, Suffolk, Westchester, Rockland and Putnam
Property conditionAppraisal includes minimum property standards — peeling paint, handrails, roof life can require repair before closingAppraisal is valuation-focused; condition standards are less prescriptive
Gift fundsEntire down payment may come from an eligible giftGifts allowed, with documentation and occasionally a minimum borrower contribution

Figures reflect HUD and GSE guidelines current as of September 2026 and are general program parameters rather than quotes. FHA county loan limits vary across New York; ask for the limit on your specific county.

How to decide

Which one is yours?

Choose FHA if…

Credit or ratios are the constraint
  • Your score is below about 660 — FHA mortgage insurance ignores credit score, conventional PMI punishes it hard
  • Your debt-to-income is tight and you need the extra flexibility
  • You are within a few years of a bankruptcy, foreclosure or short sale
  • Your down payment is entirely gifted
  • You plan to refinance out of it in a few years anyway, which neutralizes the permanent MI

Choose conventional if…

Your file is strong enough to be rewarded for it
  • Your score is 700+ — you get cheaper PMI and better pricing
  • You can reach 20% equity within several years, at which point PMI disappears entirely
  • You are buying above the FHA limit for your county
  • The house has cosmetic condition issues that would fail FHA minimum property standards
  • You are buying a second home or investment property — FHA is owner-occupied only
Brian Marchand
The mortgage insurance is the whole decision, and almost nobody explains it.
Straight talk from Brian

Everyone shops the interest rate. Two people can have the same rate and pay wildly different amounts, because FHA mortgage insurance never comes off a loan with less than 10% down and conventional PMI does. On a thirty-year loan that gap is not small.

What I do is run both, all in, and show you the monthly and the ten-year cost side by side. Sometimes FHA wins outright. Sometimes we use FHA now specifically because it is the only door open, with a plan to refinance to conventional once the score recovers. That is a strategy, not a consolation prize.

The one thing I will push back on: do not pick FHA just because you heard it is the first-time-buyer loan. It is not. Plenty of first-time buyers should be conventional, and plenty of repeat buyers should be FHA.

— Brian Marchand, Sr. Loan Consultant · NMLS #481563 · call or text me
Good to know

FHA vs. conventional, answered

Is FHA or conventional better for a first-time home buyer?+
Neither is automatically better. FHA is the stronger option when your credit score is under roughly 680 or your debt-to-income ratio is tight, because its mortgage insurance is priced the same regardless of score. Conventional is stronger at 700+, since PMI is cheaper at high scores and cancels once you reach 20% equity. First-time buyer status itself does not favor either program.
Does FHA mortgage insurance ever go away?+
On a loan with less than 10% down, FHA annual mortgage insurance remains for the life of the loan. With 10% or more down it drops after 11 years. The only way to remove it on a low-down-payment FHA loan is to refinance into a conventional loan, which is why many borrowers use FHA as an entry point and refinance later.
Can you get a conventional loan with 3% down?+
Yes. Conventional programs including HomeReady and Home Possible allow 3% down for qualifying buyers, typically with income limits or first-time buyer requirements. Standard conventional financing starts at 5% down. Both are well below the 20% figure most buyers assume is required.
What credit score do you need for FHA vs conventional?+
FHA allows a 580 score at 3.5% down and goes as low as 500 with 10% down. Conventional generally requires 620 as a floor. The practical difference is pricing: conventional rates and PMI improve significantly as scores climb past 700, while FHA costs stay flat regardless of score.
Why did the seller reject my FHA offer?+
Some sellers worry about FHA minimum property standards, which require the appraiser to flag conditions like peeling paint, missing handrails or a roof near the end of its life before closing. On a house needing cosmetic work, that can mean repairs the seller has to complete. A strong, current pre-approval and a lender the listing agent can reach both help.
Can I switch from FHA to conventional later?+
Yes, by refinancing, and it is a common strategy. Once your credit score has improved or you have reached about 20% equity, refinancing to conventional removes the permanent FHA mortgage insurance. Whether it makes sense depends on where rates are at that point compared with your existing note.
Is FHA available for investment property?+
No. FHA financing requires you to occupy the home as your primary residence. A limited exception exists for two-to-four unit properties where you live in one unit and rent the others, which is a legitimate and often overlooked strategy. For a non-owner-occupied purchase you would use conventional or a DSCR loan.
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Program parameters shown reflect agency and investor guidelines current as of September 2026 and are subject to change without notice. Down payment, credit score, mortgage insurance and loan limit figures are general guidelines, not quotes, and vary by lender overlay, property type, occupancy and county. This page is educational and is not a commitment to lend, an offer of credit, or tax, legal or investment advice. All loans subject to credit approval and program guidelines; not all applicants will qualify. Brian Marchand, NMLS #481563 · New American Funding, LLC, NMLS #6606 · Equal Housing Lender.